It is hoped that these stories I share with all of you do several things rather than just to share knowledge with those who seek it. Perhaps most importantly is to help all of us see what we can no longer see. To see beyond mere buildings, paved roads and cars and get a better appreciation of this place we all call home. Such is a place known in time as ………Kapua`ikaula.

Many of the stories and traditions associated with Kapua`ikaula seem to refer to Kapua`ikaula and Puuloa as the same place. We do know that it is in the Moku of Ewa. Puuloa is not just Ewa Beach but rather all of Pearl Harbor or as it is anciently known, Keawalauopu`uloa (the many harbors of Pu`uloa). Some felt that it was on the Honolulu side of the channel entrance to Keawalauopu`uloa and others thought from the stories that it was on the Waianae side of the channel upon approach from the sea. In all these stories there was a strong connection to Pu`uloa. From all indication it appeared to be a fishing village located along the shore. According to the oral traditions there are many references to it being a place of canoe landing and departure. So where in the Moku of Ewa did this interesting place exist.

Let`s start by sharing some interesting stories of this place. When Peleioholani, mo`i (ruler) of the island of O`ahu, Kauai and Molokai died his son Kumuhana assumed authority of these islands. Kumuhana however was not a respected Chief. Most people and other Chiefs and Kahuna saw him as self-serving with no sense of responsibility.

Shortly after his assent to mo`i he simply disappears from all stories and traditions. Little is known of him. The stories that immediately follow is a search for a new mo`i. That responsibility fell into the hands of Kahuna nui of O`ahu Kaopulupulu. He was the spiritual pillar and advisor to the Chief of this island. It was well known by all that Kaopulupulu was very disappointed in Kumuhana at the time he disappeared. Kaopulupulu felt that in filling the vacancy left by Kumuhana the nephew of Peleioholani, Kahahana was best suited for the position.

Although Kahahana was born on O`ahu he was sent to Maui as a young boy and was raised as a hanai son in the court of Kahekili. The relationship between Maui and O`ahu was strained during these years. This difficult relationship was the result of an assault on island of O`ahu by Kauhiakama of Maui some 200 years earlier. The Administrative Chief of the island of O`ahu at that time was Kaihikapu-a-Kakuhihewa. His grandfather was Kaihikapu-a-Manuia who built the huge fish ponds of Kaihikapu and Lelepaua at Kapua`ikaula. His father was the great O`ahu Chief Kakuhihewa. Kauhiakama’s warriors suffered a major defeat and Kauhiakama`s body was sacrificed and desecrated by Kaihikapu at Apuakehau Heiau at the present site of the Moana Hotel in Waikiki. His bones were used to make fish hooks and his skull was used as a receptacle for human excrement. This was something that Maui had never forgotten and swore that their descendants will one day take revenge. That day was soon arriving. Kahekili had never forgotten.

Kaopulupulu sought out the sister of Kahahana and asked that she go to Kahekili and ask that he allow Kahahana to return to O`ahu to serve as Mo`i. After she had arrived in Maui and submitted the request of Kaopolupolu, Kahekili met with his hanai son Kahahana. He informed Kahahana of the request of the Kahuna nui Kaopulupulu and gave his approval on condition that all of the land and ocean resources of Kualoa would be his. Kahahana agreed to these conditions not knowing the value of this gift. When Kaopulupulu and all the O`ahu chiefs heard of the agreement Kahahana made with Kahekili they all disapproved. This was the beginning of the decline of the Nanaulu geneaological line of O`ahu chiefs.

Kaopulupulu was a true prophet at the time that Kahahana became the Chief of O`ahu. He was respected by everyone and held in high esteem amongst both the Chiefs and Kahuna class. He was the Kahuna nui. He served Kahahana faithfully although he disagreed with the agreement he made with Kahekili. He made every effort to make Kahahana understand that his authority and rule relied on the sanctity of Kualoa. Kahahana`s arrogance and thoughlessness caused Kaopulupulu to return to his home in the Moku of Waialua in Waimea at the “Valley of the Temples”. His heiau known as “Kupopolu Heiau” still stands in silence somber beneath the weeds on the Haleiwa side of Waimea Bay mauka of Kamehameha Highway. It is on property belonging Kamehameha Schools.

Kaopulupulu had his knee tattooed as the word deaf and knee is the same. He did this so all would know that his chief was deaf to all sound advice. When the news of Kaopulupulu tattooing his knee got to Kahahana, he angrily ordered that Kaopulupulu be put to death. All the while Kahekili trying to convince Kahahana that Kaopulupulu was a traitor and to heed to the conditions of awarding Kualoa to him. Kahahana`s Nakoa sought out Kaopulupulu and found both he and his son Kahulupue at Kupopolu, Waimea Bay. The intent was to bring him to Ulukou (Waikiki) by way of Kapua`ikaula and sacrifice him at Apuakehau Heiau. The Nakoa however took him and his son Kahulupue to Waianae by way of Kaena. They stopped at Pu`u Kahea today in the area where the old plantation manager’s house used to be. It was at Pu`u Kahea where Kahahana’s Nakoa stabbed and fatally wounded Kahulupue. It was here that Kaopulupulu shouted out to his son and said, “make every effort to reach the sea, then the land shall belong to the sea.”

As a prophet in this reference Kaopulupulu is saying that the future of these islands lie in the sea. Kahulupue ran and made it to sea in the area of Mount Lahilahi at Makaha and swam out and was never seen again.

Kaopulupulu was then taken to Kapua`ikaula by way of the trail by Pu`uokapolei. He was taken pass Pukaua, Pu`uokapolei, Keoniae, Puainako and Poohilo and arrived at Kapua`ikaula, Pu`uloa. It was here at Kapua`ikaula that Kaopulupulu was killed. However before he was killed he prophesized that where his body would be laid in Waikiki so too would his chief, Kahahana’s body lie. He further prophesized that all the lands of these islands would one day pass into the hands of foreign power from across the sea.

His body was then placed in a canoe at Kapua`ikaula and taken to Ulukoa (Waikiki) and placed upon an ahu (altar) at Apuakehau Heiau. The year was 1784. Five years earlier Captain Cook arrived in these islands and subsequently killed at Kealakekua Bay. Kamehameha was a young man on Moku O Keawe, Hawaii Island. Word of these islands was spreading around the world.

With Kaopulupulu gone it was easy for Kahekili to launch an assault on Kahahana. Upon word that Kahekili had arrived with his Nakoa on O`ahu, Kahahana with his wife Kekuapo`i and one other friend fled into the forest to escape the wrath of Kahekili. Kahekili devastated the island of O`ahu and ruthlessly killed many men, women and children. He sought out many of the remaining O`ahu chiefs and their wives and children. He killed the last remaining descendants of the Nanaulu clan who were the first Tahitian arrivals who had arrived on these shores approximately around 400 AD. Kahekili and Kamehameha were descendants of the Ulu Clan who had arrived in the eastern islands of the Hawaiian chain some 500 years later. Although cousins to the earlier Nanaulu Clan of O`ahu it was time that divided these Tahitian cousins. Kahekili had fulfilled the death of his ancestor Kauhiakama who was sacrificed and whose bones were desecrated some 200 years earlier. Kahekili found Kahahana in Pu`uloa where he was killed and taken by canoe from Kapua`ikaula and laid upon the same altar in Waikiki at the Apuakehau Heiau also in fulfillment of the prophecy of Kaopolupolu.

Our cultural history is such an interesting one that some things are so hard to explain. It could be said that maybe some occurrences are just a matter of coincidence. Kaopulupulu knew that these lands would one day pass into foreign hands and they would come from across the sea. He also knew that the fulfillment of that prophecy would only happen with his death. It was not something that he wanted but knew it was destined. Years later when sugar blanketed our once pristine native landscape one of Hawaii`s largest sugar markets was the United States. The northern and southern states were in the middle of their Civil War. Shipment of sugar to the northern states was cut off by the south which created an opportunity for Hawaiian sugar. As the shipment of sugar to the United States increased so did the tax on exported sugar to the U.S. Eventually King Kalakaua made an agreement with the United States that by reducing the tax on sugar he would allow the U.S. exclusive rights of access to Keawalauopuuloa (Pearl Harbor). This was the Reciprocity Treaty. Thus Kaopulupulu`s prophecy had come true. The very first lands to pass into a foreign power was Keawalauopuuloa. It was here that Kaopulupulu was killed.

So…….where is Kapua`ikaula. Where in Pu`uloa is Kapua`ikaula? After much research it was learned that the Moku boundary between Ewa and Kona (Honolulu) has changed several times. Today the Moku boundary parallels the fence line dividing Pearl Harbor Naval Shipyard from Hickam Air Force Base. However upon further investigation it was learned that anciently the actual boundary was 1 mile east of the fence separating the bases. It allowed both Ewa and Kona to share in the inland fish ponds of Lelepaua and Kaihikapu which were built by Kaihikapu-a-Manuia who was the son of Kalaimanuia and the father of Kakuhihewa. Those fishponds which were 332 and 258 acres respectively now lie beneath the tarmac of both Hickam AFB and the Honolulu International Airport. The auwai are still there today and exit Mamala Bay and Keehi Lagoon. You can still see them today on your occasional flights off island. Kapua`ikaula is Hickam Air Force Base. The ancient Moku boundary between Ewa and Kona used Kapua`ikaula as a description of that division. Today the center of Kapua`ikaula would be in the approximate location of Hickam Harbor Beach adjacent to the reef runway. Is it any wonder why there is a street name of Pu`uloa in Mapunapuna?

Since 2002 the O`ahu Council of Hawaiian Civic Clubs and the 15th Airbase Wing Commander of Hickam Air Force Base has been sponsoring an annual Makahiki at Kapua`ikaula. The Makahiki is an ancient, annual festival that was dedicated to Lono, the deified guardian of agriculture, rain, health and peace. For over two thousand years, the significance of Lono and his contributions to the beliefs and practices of the early Hawaiian people, influenced the celebration of events held during the Makahiki Festival throughout the Hawaiian Islands. According to the ancient lunar calendar of Hawai`i, the beginning of the Hawaiian new year began on the first night of the rising of the star constellation Makali`i (Pleiades). The four months following the rise of the Makali`i (from October to the end of January) was set aside as a time for Lono to give thanksgiving for the bounty of the land and sea.

Since Lono was the embodiment of all the characteristics of peace and welfare, all warfare was strictly forbidden during the time of the Makahiki. Since Lono represented the spiritual life-force that came out of all agricultural efforts, much feasting of every kind was done during the four months of the Makahiki. This focus on health and welfare made games of skill that tested a healthy body and mind a focal point of the Makahiki games.

It was here at Kapua`ikaula, some 250 years and earlier where the Makahiki Festival was celebrated. Other places in Ewa where the Makahiki games were played were Puuokapolei, Waikele, Waipio and Puuloa.

Let the games begin………..E Ho`omaka pa`ani……….

This essay was first published on myadvertiser.com in November 2007.