The oral traditions of the 1800s, after western contact, make some interesting references to a place anciently referred to as Pukaua. In some of the stories it is referred to as the “Plains of Pukaua.”

In an attempt to identify this “Plains of Pukaua” one would need only to refer to Sterling and Summers, “Sites of O`ahu.” It makes reference to a traveler, traveling along the ancient trail from Kou or Honolulu to Wai’anae first passing the “Village of Gold” or today the area of the City and County’s West Loch Golf Course. The ancient name of this area is actually Po`ohilo although we refer to it today as Honouliuli. This is an area that sits inside of Honouliuli Gulch just where it flattens out before reaching West Loch or as it is anciently known as Kaihupalaai.

Old Ewa Plantation Town sits on the top of the Gulch on the western side overlooking Honouliuli gulch as Old Fort Weaver Road meanders its way through it.

Before we leave this “Village of Gold” let me share a little story of how this place got its ancient place name.

Today we refer to it as Honouliuli but it was anciently known as Po`ohilo. O`ahu had always been an island that the other island chiefs wanted to control, especially Maui and Hawai’i Island. O`ahu had more inland water than both those islands so the people of O`ahu were thus considered wealthy.

Keawalauopuuloa or the “many harbors of Pu`uloa,” today Pearl Harbor, was considered the bread basket of the island of O`ahu. It was known for its abundance of oysters and clams and many varieties of shellfish. Anae or baby mullet were also found in abundance. The waters of Pearl Harbor were a dark blue and not the brown and black that it is today. Many varieties of native water birds thrived in these waters. Lo`i Kalo and fishponds bordered much of the shoreline. The Hawai’i Island chiefs envied the people of O`ahu so much for their wealth that during the time of Mailikukahi’s reign as Mo’i of the Island of O`ahu several Hawai’i Island Chiefs including one from Maui launched an invasion on the island of O`ahu by way of Kaihupalaai (West Loch).

Mailikukahi`s reign took place around the early 1500s and it was during this period that one of the political capitols of the island of O`ahu was a place called Lihue or today the area of Schofield Barracks. Not Lihue, Kauai but Lihue on O`ahu.

The Lihue on Kauai got its name from the Lihue on O`ahu. Lihue also included the area today where Del Monte’s fresh fruit cannery and Kunia Plantation Camp is located. It was also considered the training grounds of Mailikukahi’s warriors or Nakoa.

So it was here that the invading armies sought out Mailikukahi’s Nakoa. They came with 3,000 canoes and first landed at Waikiki which was considered another political capitol of O`ahu. They then continued west and entered Waimomi (Pearl River) the entrance to Pearl Harbor then into Kaihupalaai (West Loch) and landed in the area of the West Loch homes and the St. Francis West Hospital.

They marched up the trail of Kunia. Our Kunia Road was a foot trail to Lihue. They eventually found Mailikukahi’s Nakoa at Waikakalaua where a major battle took place. Mailikukahi’s Nakoa decisively defeated the foreign invaders. Chief Punaluu from Hawai’i Island was killed in the area where Mililani is now located.

However the ancient name of Mililani is Punaluu which got its name from this battle where Punaluu lost his life.

Mailikukahi pursued the invaders as they tried to get back to where they had left their canoes. Another major battle took place in Kipapa Gulch. So many Hawai’i Island warriors lost their lives here that it was said that the river ran red with the blood of the invaders. The name Kipapa got its name from this battle “paved with the blood of the Hawai’i Island warriors.” Mailikukahi continued to pursue the invaders to Waimanu where the Chief Hilo was killed and decapitated. His head was then taken to the intersection of the trail to Waianae and Kunia where it was placed on a pole and displayed for all to see. Thus this place came to be known as Po’ohilo “the head of Hilo.” It was to serve as a warning to anyone else who had plans to invade the Island of O`ahu not to come by way of Kaihupalaai.

As the traveler passes the “Village of Gold” along this ancient trail he first comes upon Puainako. As he passes Puainako he comes across Keoneae which is identified as being within Kaloi Gulch. This reference would place Keoneae at the intersection of Farrington Highway and the proposed north-south road. It is interesting that Keoneae and Keoneula both are situated in the natural alignment of Kaloi Gulch.

It is highly possible that at one time water may have passed along this portion of Kaloi Gulch establishing a relationship between the people of Keoneae and Keoneula. Keoneae also served as an intersection of another trail that entered the upper regions of Kaloi Gulch.

Today this trail now passes through the Castle and Cooke Homes of “Wai Kaloi” along the western slope of Kaloi Gulch, along the perimeter of “Kumulani Subdivision” and up to Palehua. Remnants of this trail can still be seen at the higher elevations of Kaloi Gulch.

Harry Von Holt who was the first ranch manager of the James Campbell Honouliuli Ranch used this trail to carry construction materials in the building of his home up in Palehua. That home still stands today and is affectionately referred to as Hokuloa, a retreat to the Campbell family.

As the traveler passes Keoneae he next comes upon Puuokapolei. I have shared in a previous story the special role that Puuokapolei played in ancient times so I will not dwell too long here except to quote the words of 2 ancient chants about this special place before I move along.

A mele inoa (name chant) for Kuali`i who lived around the late 1600s, makes these interesting statements:

Aole I like I ka Paaa Not like the rind of the banana
I ka weke lao a ke Akua (Or) the tattered sugar-cane leaves of the gods,
Ka ulu kanu a kahai; (Or) the breadfruit tree planted by Kahai;
‘Oi`ole ka oe I ike Truly have you not known
Ka wahine pau mao The woman with the faded garment
I ka luna o Puuokapolei On top of Puuokapolei
Aole I like Ku Not like these is Ku

The interesting reference to Kahai having planted the first breadfruit tree who we have read about in a previous cultural essay. The woman in the faded garment on the hill of Pu`uokapolei is believed to be “Kapo.”

The lamentation (kanikau) for Kahahana, the last Mo`i of the island of O`ahu makes this interesting statement about Puuokapolei. He died as a result of injuries he sustained from the assault of Kahekili on the island of O`ahu. He died in 1784:

He kai mahamoe, kai moa Kailua e A distant sea, a foamy sea is Kailua
O ka luhe la lula I ke kehau Fanned, cooled by the gentle breeze
He hau ke ala, he kumoena ololi; The hau is the path, a narrow strip;
E newa ai o hea make I ka la, Go carefully lest you fall dead in the sun,
Akua noho la I Puuokapolei The god that dwells on Kapolei hill

The Akua noho or the god that dwells on Kapolei hill is “Kapo.”

As we travel past Puuokapolei in our attempt to find this place anciently known as Pukaua we can no longer see ‘Ewa as its view is blocked by Puuokapolei.

The trail to Pukaua is getting narrow. As we get to the waterpark and look west toward Honokai Hale, this stretch of land on both sides of the H-1 Freeway to include that portion of old Farrington Highway as Awanui, Palailai and Makaiwa Gulches flattens out is Pukaua.

There is an interesting story of Pukaua that made this place famous in ancient times. It is a story of the two old women who turned into stone. It is a story of two supernatural women or kupua wahine who lived in Pukaua and Pukaua was their place.

These two women were known to have strange powers. One day when they were at Ku`alakai fishing in the evening they caught some fish, aama crabs and even pipipi shell fish. As it started to get dark and late they decided it was time to start heading for home. They picked up their fish and things and started on their way home.

As they were on their way they realized that they needed to get home before it got light. They however met a one-eyed man. He took up much of their time and when they were finally done speaking with him they realized that they were running out of time and it was beginning to get light. As they ran they started to drop their fish, crab, limu, not even caring knowing how important it was for them to get back home before the sun came up. They did not want to be seen by anyone.

They needed to get to the mauka side of the trail. They did not get far when it was finally daylight. One of the women said to the other “let’s hide before we are seen by someone.” It was too late as their bodies had turned into stone.

There was an article in the Hawaiian language newspaper, the Ka Loea Kalaiaina on January 13, 1900. The article informed readers of this story and reminded them whenever they were traveling to Waianae to look on the mauka side of road in the area of Pukaua and they would see the stone of the two kupua wahine.

The stone however is not there today. It is believed that it was destroyed with the construction of the H-1 Freeway. Interesting though when you think about it that was not too long ago.

It seems that we have lost so much in our lifetime. However you can still see the two kupua wahine if you look hard enough. I find myself always trying to look for them as I drive to Waianae in the area of Honokai Hale. Maybe we will be lucky one day and see them standing in quiet solitude together on the mauka side of the freeway opposite Honokai Hale.

Pukaua is an interesting place.There is also an interesting reference to this area as the place of the Olohe. What is puzzling is the reference to Olohe as “robbers.” Historically Olohe were Lua practitioners of high rank and in many cases were Ali`i. It is not surprising that they would refer to Pukaua as a place of Olohe or a place of Lua practitioners. The name Pukaua literally means “war chief.”

Kamehameha’s instructor in the fighting arts of lua was Kekuhaupi`o. He was an Olohe. So why are the Olohe of Pukaua referred to as “robbers?” Let’s first examine the location for maybe the place has the answer as all Hawaiian place names do.

Pukaua is located at the eastern door to Wai’anae. The western door is Kaena Point. There are similar stories that refer to the western door to Wai’anae as the place of Olohe. Similarly they are referred to as “robbers.” The moku boundary between between `Ewa and Wai’anae is at Pili-o-kahe, within reach of the Olohe O Pukaua. At the western door, the moku boundary between Wai’anae and Waialua is at Kaena Point.

The stories of the Olohe at the western door are associated with the Kaneana Cave or more recently known as Makua Cave. Perhaps these Olohe were guards to the entrances to Wai’anae and not robbers which we have been mistakenly made to believe.

Support for this area as being a place of lua practitioners can also be found in its cultural structures. On the mauka side of Farrington Highway in the area we know of as Pukaua lie a number of very interesting stone structures. On the high ground looking over what once was the only trail into Wai’anae are a whole series of low c-shaped stone structures. Not large enough to protect one from the weather, but large enough to conceal someone from being observed by an intruder walking along the trail into Wai’anae.

Further up the hillside from Pukaua is an interesting stone enclosure with seating areas on both the eastern and western side of the enclosure. The enclosure sits inside of a small depression giving one the impression of an amphitheater or having been used as a training arena. It is also a short walk from the moku boundary between `Ewa and Wai’anae. The area surrounding the stone enclosure has a commanding view of all of ‘Ewa.Canoes passing east and west off shore can be easily observed.

It is a short walk to the moku boundary between `Ewa and Wai’anae. It would be an easy task to signal Wai’anae of the presence of intruders approaching their eastern door at Paukaua.

These stories are not meant to confuse us but rather to draw the lines between the “dots,” For the “dots” are many. The lines have been removed by much of what has happened over the last 200 years with the deaths of so many people and the many changes to our landscape.

It is hoped that these stories bring some clarity to our ancient past and a sense of appreciation for the present.

This essay was first published on myadvertiser.com in February 2007.